Magical Kham - Experience Eastern Tibet

Magical Kham - Experience Eastern Tibet

Its climate, geography, flora and fauna all lend it a unique, almost magical atmosphere. The stone villages have more in common with neighboring Bhutan, the chortens (stupas) seem lifted from Mustang in Nepal and the forested scenery is more Swiss Alps than high Tibetan plateau. Geographically the region varies from the lush subtropical jungle and raging rivers of the southern borderlands to the arid plateau and purple gorges of the east, where the head-waters of some of Asia’s greatest rivers - the Mekong, Salween and Yangzi - tumble off the Tibetan plateau. The glaciated peaks of Namche Barwa (7756m) and the remote gorges of the Yarlung Tsangpo, the world’s deepest, form one of Asia’s last secret corners.

It gains much of its charm from its people. Khampa cowboys, dressed in sheepskin cloaks and braided hair, cruise the region’s highways on their motorbikes. Kham sometimes feels like the America’s Wild West, with the cowboys and buffalos replaced by Khampas and yaks. There are two main routes through the region, offering an once-in-a-lifetime route in or out of Tibet. The busier and strategically important southern road takes in the best of the alpine scenery. The unpaved northern road is a higher roller-coaster ride past ancient temples, remote Bon monasteries and herding communities.

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Why travellers should go to Lhasa?

 Lhasa, the remote abode of the Dalai Lamas, object of devout pilgrimage
and heart and soul of Tibet, is a city of wonders. Lhasa is so much more
accessible than it was years ago. While you will see a new airport, roads,
million-dollar condos, and monks with cell phones, you can still
appreciate the beauty of the Tibetan plateau, the shimmering blue sky
against the mountains, and the beautiful, soulful Tibetan people.
Changtang Grassland
Your first hint that Lhasa is close is the Potala, a vast white-and-ochre
fortress soaring over one of the world’s highest cities.
While the Potala dominates the skyline, the Jokhang, some 2km to the
east, is the real spiritual heart of the city. An otherworldly mix of flickering
butter lamps, wafting incense and prostrating pilgrims, the Jokhang is the
most sacred and alive of Tibet’s temples. It is here and the encircling
Barkhor pilgrim circuit that most visitors first fall in love with Tibet.
For all its modernization Lhasa remains a fantastic cultural hybrid, its
streets bustling with a diverse mix of people. As the gateway to the ‘real’
Tibet, out in the countryside, Lhasa deserves at least a week to see all
the sights, soak up the backstreets and organize the adventures that
beckon at the city limits.

Overland Route to Tibet

For those with a spirit of adventure, driving a four wheel vehicle to Tibet
may provide you with the experience of a lifetime! Such an expedition
is demanding and requires participants to be in good physical health,
time is required to make the journey and it's costly. Anyone considering
this journey should be advised that a lot of courage and determination
are required!
There are five major road routes to Lhasa. They are the Nepal-Tibet
Friendship highway, Sichuan-Tibet highway, Qinghai-Tibet highway,
Xinjiang-Tibet highway, Yunnan-Tibet highway.
Qinghai-Tibet Highway
Xining - 123 km - Daotang River - 196 km - Caka - 484 km - Golmud -
269 km - Wudaoliang- 150 km - Tuotuo Riverside - 91 km - Yanshiping
- 100 km - Tanggula Mountain - 89 km - Amdo - 138 km - Nagqu - 164
km - Damxung - 75 km - Yangbajain - 87 km – Lhasa, 1937 km in
length.
Sichuan-Tibet Highway
Northern Route: Chengdu – 394 km – Kangding – 267 km - Luhuo – 95
km – Garze – 207 km – Dege – 111 km – Gyamda – 228 km – Chamdo
– 480 km – Baqing – 256 km – Nagqu – 164 km – Damxung – 162 km
– Lhasa, 2121 km in length with the highest point at Queer Mt. of
4916m. also could via: Chengdu – Ya’an – Kangding – Xinduqiao –
Luhuo – Garze – Lhasa.
Southern Route: Chengdu – 147 km - Ya'an - 163 km – Luding – 62 km
– Kangding – 149 km – Yajiang – 308 km – Batang – 104 km – Markam
– 158 km – Zuogong – 107 km – Bongda – 94 km – Baxoi – 217 km –
Bomi – 233 km – Nyingtri – 127 km – Gongbo Gyamda – 206 km –
Mozhugongka – 73 km – Lhasa, 2140 km in length with the highest
point at Litang of 4700m.
Yunnan-Tibet Highway
Kunming - 353 km – Dali - 166 km – Lijiang - 145 km – Zhongdian - 152
km – Deqen - 103 km – Yanjing - 111 km – Markam - 359 km - Baxio -
450 km - Nyingchi - 420 km – Lhasa, 2300 km in length.
Xinjiang-Tibet Highway
Yecheng - 69km - Pusa - 88km – Kudidaban - 83km – Mazadaban -
339km - Sweet Water Sea - 110km – Jieshandaban - 177km –
Duomaping - 143km - Rutog County - 87km - Shiquanhe town - 331km
- Parga - 334km- Zhongba -145km – Saga - 293km - Lhaze -
157km – Xigaze - 337km – Lhasa, 2743 km in length

Recommend Itineraries

-newline"> For most travellers, visiting Tsang means a straight shot from Lhasa to the Nepali border, with stops at Gyantse, Shigatse and Mt Everest. This journey
takes about eight days if done at a reasonable pace.
From Lhasa, head out on the Southern Friendship Hwy, which takes you over the Kamba-la pass to the shores of Yamdrok-tso, then on to
Nangartse and Gyantse. You’ll need a full day in Gyantse before you can move on to Shigatse. West of Shigatse the next obvious stop is Lhatse,
but there are two worthy side trips on the way - Sakya Monastery and Phuntsoling Monastery. From Lhatse it’s on to Baber and Shegar, a key
stop before heading on to Everest Base Camp (EBC). Back on the main highway there is old Tingri and Nyalam before you finally reach the
border town of Zhangmu. The best hike in the region is from old Tingri to EBC (or vice versa), which will add another four days to your journey.
If you are in a hurry, it’s quicker to take the Northern Friendship Road when travelling between Lhasa and Shigatse but going this way you’ll miss
Gyantse, one of the highlights of Tsang. Any way you go you’ll find good facilities along the way and relatively easy drives as the Friendship Hwy is
entirely paved. The exception is the Everest region, which has dirt roads and basic accommodation.

Highlights in Lhasa

  Follow monks, mendicants and fellow pilgrims around the
Barkhor, Lhasa’s fascinating medieval pilgrim circuit.
  Join the shuffling lines of awed pilgrims around the glowing
shrines of the Jokhang, Tibet’s holiest temple.
  Go down into the bowels of the Potala, the impressive but
spiritless citadel of the Dalai Lamas.
  Take in a prayer meeting or some monk-debating at Sera
and Drepung, two of the largest and most intact of Tibet’s great
monasteries.
  A day out to Ganden Monastery and test your sin on its
fascinating kora.
  Explore the traditional whitewashed architecture, teashops
and craft workshops of Lhasa’s backstreets on our Old
Town Walking Tour.
  Track down one of Lhasa’s off-the-beaten-track
temples, such as the Meru Nyingba Monastery or Tengye Ling.
  Get a taste of the northern Changtang at the turquoise
waters, snowy peaks and nomads’ tents of stunning high-altitude
Lake Namtso.
  Marvel at the turquoise waters of Yamdrok-tso, one of
Tibet’s most sacred lakes.

What is Aliens' Travel Permits (PSB's)

Tibet  is  slightly  more  complicated  when  it  comes  to  travel  permits  than elsewhere in China. An Alien Travel Permit (usually just called a ‘travel permit’) is  granted  by  the  PSB  (Public  Security  Bureau)  for  travel  to  an  area  that  is officially closed.

Tibet  PSB  will  not  issue  travel  permits  to  individuals  and the travel permits are usually only obtainable through tour operators,  for  organized  tours  by  four-wheel-drive  car.  A  single  permit  is normally issued to all the people who are traveling together, the permit naming just  one  of  them  and  stating  how  many  others  are  accompanying  him;  the passports,  or  at  least  photocopies  of  passports  and  visas,  of  all  persons traveling must be presented in order to obtain a permit.

If you want to do an overland tour from Yunnan, Sichuan or Xinjiang province to Tibet, your Entry Stamp to China  is required  to apply the PSB before your tour starts.

Tsamda Hot Springs

The odourless, iron-rich springs are about 12km west of Tingri, and are piped directly into the pools of the Tsamda Snow Leopard Hot Spring Hotel (dm Y40, d Y200-280). Most travellers are not very impressed with the public pools, but you can rent a private room with bath for Y50 for a couple hours if the place is not busy. The private bath is a bit rough, too, and stained red in places from the iron in the water, but it’s just the thing for cleaning yourself off after a day or two at Everest Base Camp.

The hotel makes for a better stop than Tingri. There’s a common room on the 2nd floor with outstanding views, and some pleasant easy walks around the nearby hills. And the hot-spring water, despite the basic setup, is actually very good quality and the perfect temperature for  soaking in.